Gear stick Adjustment

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I needed to remove and adjust the gear stick for a number of reasons:

1. The shift pattern was not right. I was always finding 2nd gear difficult.
2. The gear stick movement was sloppy.
3. The pressure spring was constantly rattling.
4. I have a new Nickel plated gear stick!!!!!!

Firstly, remove the rubber matting to expose the gear stick cover. Remove the 2 M8 bolts (13mm spanner) and lift the gear stick assembly away. Examine the gear lever ball and indent pin for wear. The indent pin on my gear stick had worn at both ends (see picture) and so was replaced for a good used example. The socket that the gear stick fits into was cleaned and re-greased.

Indent pins Gearstick socket Gearstick ball
Gearstick Gearstick assembly
The new gear stick was built up by first placing the conical spring (small end pointing up) over the end of the stick. Then the indent pin and spring are placed in the recess in the gear stick. Grease the spring to damp any vibrations. Locate the shifter plate (check for wear) over the aperture and carefully place the gear stick end into the socket. The indent pin fits into a slot in the socket. The gear stick is put into the socket by angling the stick backwards to depress the indent pin so that the ball will fit into the socket. It is all a little bit fiddly, but after a couple of goes you will soon see how it goes together. Again, another job where you need 2 pairs of hands!!

Once the gear stick is positioned into the socket, keeping a downwards pressure, lower the cover (grease the inside of the cover) and gaiter over the end of the gear stick and re-fit the 2 bolts hand tight only.

Gearstick positioning Now depress the clutch and engage second gear. Move the shifter plate until the gear stick is pointing vertical (cranked section pointing roughly 30 degrees backwards). I could not get the gear stick to point vertically. The best I could achieve with the movement available was about 80 degrees. Once this has been completed, move the shifter plate towards the left until it just touches the gear stick. The shifter plate guides the gear stick and also prevents reverse gear being selected when trying to find second gear. Tighten the 2 bolts and try the gear stick for movement. You should be able to locate all the gears and the movement between 2nd and 1st gear should be in a straight line. If not, slacken the 2 bolts and re-position the shifter plate until the desired movement is achieved. The selector plate from mid 1971 had 2 indents that the gear stick cover sat into to help with adjustment. The modified parts can be fitted to an earlier model.

Rear gearbox bush I had 2-3 goes at re-positioning the selector plate before I was happy with the movement. On completion the movement was much slicker which must have been down to the wear in the indent pin but with the large distance between the gear stick and the gearbox, the shift is never going to be perfect. With everything re-fitted the Haynes manual states that the maximum sideways movement of the gear stick when in 2nd gear is 35mm and 70mm when in neutral. If this movement still cannot be achieved, check the square gearbox coupling under the van between the gear linkage and the gearbox input shaft. Wear here will magnify the movement at the gearstick. The coupling costs about 10 and is located by a square headed (7mm) screw. I knew that this was OK on my van as I changed it last year!!




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